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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  "lovely" virtue; and that with courage it is possible for people of widely
differing cultures to communicate with each other (despite what
contemporary anthropologists tend to say): even a small red-haired Scot in
white shorts with an Ashanti executioner or as Ashanti god speaking
through the mouth of his spirit-possessed priest. I hope that the result will
both have intrinsic interest as a study of an individual who played a
significant part in the history of British Africa and the development of
British anthropology, and also serve as a useful companion to those
monumental but highly approachable volumes by Rattray on the Ashanti
which still demand a place on the shelves of anyone who is interested in
Africa or, one might even say, in mankind.


  Noel Machin
























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  Chapter 1. Anglo-Indians







  If Rattray were still alive, he would be over a hundred. If his
  grandfather were still alive, he would be over two hundred. The Rattray
family was one of those, not so uncommon in the last century, which cross
centuries in one or two generations. Rattray himself had a little of the
eighteenth century about him, a freedom of thought which went out with
the Victorians, which may have been because the eighteenth century was so
close in family history. It meant that for most people is a question of
ancestors was only yesterday for the Rattrays.

  Their story, as it was told in the family, began where so many Scottish
  colonial stories began, at Culloden.2  In 1745, Charles Rattray of
Craighall-Rattray in Perthshire raised his own army in support of Bonnie
Prince Charlie. At Culloden, it was wiped out and Charles was taken down
to London to be hanged as a traitor. But "at the foot of the gallows" (as the
family tradition had it) he was suddenly pardoned and sent back to Scotland



  2Much of the information given here on the Rattray family comes from two privately-
  printed books: Robert Haldane Rattray: Personal and Family Events in My Life, Calcutta
1859, and A. Rattray, Letters of Henrietta Rattray to her Sons in India, 1800-14, London
1878. For the loan of these, as for much other material, I am deeply indebted to Rattray's
daughter and son-in-law, Mr. & Mrs. R. Rattray.

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  to die in his bed in the early years of the new nineteenth century, "like a
gentleman".

  This Charles Rattray had three sons. As in the fairy tales, each in turn
  had to go out into the world and seek their fortunes - the family estates
had been confiscated. The eldest, David, got no farther than Coventry,
where he set up as a doctor. The other two, James and William, were more
enterprising. They signed on to the service of the East India Company,
then in its boom-time as a money-making concern, and fast becoming a
political force. William entered the Company's army and ended up as a
Colonel. James, the second son, went into the navy. By 1783, he was in
charge of his own ship, the Athol, which went down in a fire off Madras in
1783. His next ship was named (appropriately) the Phoenix. He did well
with her, and eventually sold his share in her to a certain Captain Grey,
making enough to retire on. He went back to his mother's family estates,
which by now had reverted to him, in Strathmore, in the far northern
Highlands. In 1809, he was killed by a fall from his horse.

  Once again there were three sons, and this time all three went out to
  India. The second son was Robert Haldane Rattray, our Robert Rattray"s
grandfather, after whom he was named.

  The story was quite typical of Scottish colonial families. Just as the
  misery of Ireland in the mid-nineteenth century contributed so much
towards making the United States, so the misery of Scotland in the
eighteenth (and afterwards) made the so-called British empire almost
predominantly Scots. Robert Haldane Rattray was quite typical of his class
of pre-Mutiny Anglo-Indians.

  He became a well-known figure in the pre-Mutiny establishment in
  Bengal ending up as Chief Justice. He did not have genius, but a variety of
talents which fitted him well into that self-consciously cultured, almost
effete society. He was not what we think of nowadays as an Empire-
builder. He published an epic poem called "The Exile", and lyrics in the
sentimental manner of Thomas Moore, painted in water-colours and
designed buildings. La Martinière College in Calcutta was designed by him,
one of those neo-classical piles which impressed Regency culture so firmly
on the old Indian empire. He was also interested in what might almost be
called anthropology. His closest friend was a man called James Prinsep,
who is still remembered as a founding father of "native studies" and who
passed on these interests, slightly diluted, to Rattray, who passed them
down through his family. It is not too fanciful to give Prinsep some of the
credit for tuning Rattray's grandson into an anthropologist.


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  He married twice. His second wife was called Frances, and they too had
  three sons. The eldest, Arthur, was "our" Rattray's father. By the time he
was born, Robert Haldane was well into middle age and he died while they
were still children. But he had managed in this time to pass on to Arthur
has own love of the sea, and perhaps also a "pre-Mutiny" attitude towards
India. The attitude towards natives which we associate with the heyday of
empire arose in the sour atmosphere which followed the Mutiny in 1857,
when Anglo-Indians began to feel quite literally that "you can't trust a
native". Before the Mutiny, things were much more easy-going, and many
British residents - like Prinsep and Robert Haldane Rattray - took a
genuine polite interest in Indian culture, and even thought of themselves -
as the term Anglo-Indian suggests - as partly acculturated.

  Arthur Rattray's career in many ways repeated his father's but in a
  minor key. After school, he went into the navy but was soon diverted, like
his father, into the Indian Civil Service. In later life, he had his fortune
told, and the clairvoyant told him: "I see you wandering on a shore with
great breakers." It was how he saw himself. He hankered after the sea, and
thought of it as the real life, not administering the law in an up-country
province. His career was not as distinguished as his father's. He ended up as
a Provincial Commissioner and retired as soon as he could. He had what
was called in those days the Anglo-Indian figure, tall, tapering, elegant,
with extended hands and feet. He inherited many of his father's talents, in a
rather less forceful way, and the Rattray mixture of practicality and almost
genteel artiness. Like his father, he was good at drawing, and liked
drawing ships. He suffered from asthma, which the Indian climate
aggravated but which disappeared when he was at sea. He had a talent for
languages and an interest in Indian culture, was fluent in Urdu and
Hindustani and had a fund of Hindustani proverbs, his favourite being "The
test of gold is fire, and the test of friendship is the time of calamity." His
children grew used to hearing it when the housekeeping money ran out.

  He married Mary Sutherland, who also came from an Anglo-Indian
  family. Most of them were doctors. A Sutherland was supposed to have
tried to avert the incident which sparked off the Mutiny, by pointing out
the folly of forcing Hindus to bite the fat in the cartridges issued to them,
and Mary's father reformed the treatment of mental illness in India to an
extent which would have been considered revolutionary at home. Mary was
another typical Anglo-Indian. She was tiny, vivacious and attractive, but so
used to being surrounded by servants that she was almost incapable of
doing anything for herself. She had an aristocratic disdain for the
mechanics of life, and concentrated on improving her soul. She prayed,
contemplated and wrote devotional poetry. Rhyme, she said, came to her as


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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  easily as normal speech, and that is exactly the impression her poetry gives:
completely lacking in originality, thoroughly competent, depicting a life
spent in a steady glow of devotional ardour. If the Rattray motto "Super
Sidera Votum" ("My hope lies above the stars") applied to anyone, it was to
her. Most people found her delightful, but as so often with people whose
minds are on higher things, her abstractedness sometimes amounted to the
same thing as selfishness. It was said that she never bent down to pick up a
handkerchief she had dropped.

  Earlier Rattrays had made sure that their children were born at home,
  but by the 1880's it was considered safe to have them in India. Three
children were born before Arthur retired: a boy who died while hardly
more than a baby, a girl called Henrietta, and another boy, who was
christened Robert, after his grandfather Robert Haldane Rattray, and
Sutherland, after his mother's family. He was born in Bahr, Bengal, on the
5th September, 1881.

  India was not even a memory for Bobby Rattray. As soon as could be,
  with the memory of the first child's death fresh in their minds, his parents
shipped him and his sister back to Britain, to be looked after by a great-
aunt. India meant only family history and stories - many of which, as is
usual with stories of the tropics, were about snakes. One was of the time
when Mama was playing the harmonium and Papa came in to see a large
cobra swinging from the Venetian blinds, drawn by the music. Mama went
on playing while Papa shot the snake dead. In another, the little punkah
wallah who was working the fan over the bed where little Henrietta lay
asleep saw a cobra climb up the bed's leg into the space between the
mattress and the lower framework. When Papa arrived to deal with it he
found a nest of five baby cobras under the mattress.

  Bobby was brought up in a much less exotic environment, the little
  lowland village of Gatehouse-of-Fleet, towards the end of the southern
coast of Scotland, where it sticks out into the sea towards Ireland. It was a
cosy, uneventful place, within sight and smell of the sea, backed inland by
hills which rise to the scale of Highland mountains, with a bare main street
presided over by a Victorian pantomime-castle clock-tower. He was a
funny-looking little boy, tiny and pinched, with red hair and big flapping
ears. He looked like an imp and behaved like an imp. In later life, he
remembered how he reacted indignantly against the heavy moralising of
nursery stories: his disgust at the smugness of the coachman in "The
Fairchild Family" who gives away Master Henry when he steals the apple,
and his "rebellion at the fate of Little Emily who died of pneumonia
contracted by sponging out the bosom of her frock to remove the tell-tale


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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  stains of forbidden raspberry jam."3 The Rattrays came fairly high up in
the small scale of Gatehouse society, but there was so little to choose from
that there were few restraints. They were sometimes invited to play with
Lord Ardwell, the local laird's children, but at other times they played
with the children of the butcher, the baker and the tailor.

  Three more children joined the first two: Elizabeth, Arthur and Frances,
  making five in all - the "Five Mad Rats" as they came to be called in the
village. By the time the last one arrived, the parents had also come back to
live in Gatehouse, though Aunt Elizabeth Campbell stayed on to help. As
might have been expected, the parent "Rats" took well to retirement. "Papa
Rat" expanded what had been hobbies into full-time work. He set up a
carpentry shop at the back of the house and tinkered in it, making
"improvements" to the house, painting, woodcarving and even designing
wallpaper which visitors considered a little outré. Mama Rat continued her
Indian style of life almost as if there had been no change of continent. She
spent much of the day on the sofa in the long drawing room, resting her
slender Anglo-Indian feet adorned by shoes which Papa Rat had designed
himself and had made up in the village. Papa Rat's pension was reasonable,
but even in those days servants cost more in Scotland than in India, and
they had had no practice in saving money. "Roseville" was famous in the
village as a "guid meat house": none but the best cuts would do, and they
would have to have the butcher's biggest turkey even when he was owed
£80 - as he was one year. Every so often a tradesman would refuse to
make allowances and the atmosphere would be doom-laden until he was
paid off or the credit extended, but the servants would go on using butter
to light the fires and the best cuts would still be ordered.

  Nor had the Rattray parents much experience of bringing up children. In
  some ways Papa Rat was a disciplinarian. He expected punctuality at meals
and consideration for staff. But it did not occur either to him or to Mama
Rat that the children might need constant care and attention. As a result,
they were left to Aunt Elizabeth Campbell, who was no more commanding
as she got older, and to themselves. And as a result of that, they had an
almost ideal childhood. From May to October they were sent off to stay
with an elderly governess at a rented cottage at Carrick on the Solway
Firth. They ran completely wild, hardly wearing any clothes, running
barefoot on the pebbles until their feet were like leather. In winter, there
was skating on the frozen Calley Lake and "bonspiels" on the ice. Bobby,



  3 R.S. Rattray, “The African Child in Proverb, Folk-lore and Fact”, Africa, vol. 6, 4.
  p. 462.

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  perhaps typically, saved up until he could order a nickel-plated pair of
skates from Gorringes in London, the usual wooden ones not being good
enough for him.

  There were some constraints on their lives.  Every Sunday there was
  church. Mama Rat was fond of saying that you should go to the English
church for singing and the Scottish church for sermons. The Rattray
family pew was in the Scottish church, and the sermons put Bobby off
church religion for life, thought one of his prayers was answered. For
some time after he left Gatehouse two inscriptions remained scratched in
the wood of the Rattray pew wall: "Bobby Rattray without bicycle", and
then below it: "Bobby Rattray with bicycle".

  There was school. The village school was in the care of the lairds of
  Kelly, and the Laird's wife took personal charge of it. She had old-
fashioned ideas about education, and employed a "dominie" who was fierce
even by Scottish standards. Far from beating Bobby Rattray into
submission, Mr. Phillips brought out all his rebelliousness, of which there
was plenty, and just as the sermons put him off church so did the lessons
put him off book-learning. His mother was moved into verse by his
reports:


  To the four winds of heaven lesson books I fling,

He errs who says that school life is a happy thing.

I thought I knew my task, that I could say it pat,

But I made one mistake, and got the taws for that.

I like the game of cricket, football I adore,

And other games we play at, but lessons I deplore.

Yet I must plod away till I become a man,

And work day after day, and do the best I can.

I find mathematics very hard to learn,

Yet they say for classics I have a decided turn.

It seems that all through life it's work and little play,


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  And only those who work hard get on in life they say.

Yet "nil desperandum" has for some laurels won,

I shall strive to do my best, and never duty shun.


It was not one of her best efforts and the resolve to do better was her
  wishful thinking rather than a reflection of his attitude. He showed no signs
of becoming a scholar and his parents came to feel that he would never be
able to take up the family tradition of service in India. His father made
some effort to take him in hand, but it did little more than show that
stubbornness was a Rattray trait which they both shared. It was not made
any better when Arthur was born, when Bobby was ten, and the parents
began rather obviously to transfer their ambitions to the new son.

  As he grew up, birdnesting gave way to boat-building, steam engines and
  photography. Photography became a passion which never left him. He
persuaded his father to give him a room at the top of the house as a
darkroom where he disappeared for hours. He learned to shoot and he
went off for long fishing expeditions in the boat which he built himself,
though he showed no sign of having inherited the family sea-fever, which
was to come out in his brother. However, he did inherit the family asthma,
in a comparatively mild form. It may have had a psychological link,
because it disappeared when he went abroad and reappeared only when he
boarded the ship for home.

  Despite his unsatisfactory progress at the local school, he would
  probably have been sent on to a public school but the time coincided with a
low point in the family finances. Instead of going to Marlborough or
Cheltenham, he was sent to Stirling High School. Stirling High School was,
and no doubt is still, an excellent example of Scottish public education.
Moreover, it was a boarding school and so in keeping with Victorian
middle-class ideas of bringing up sons. But Rattray felt - and no doubt his
parents felt in their heart of hearts - that it was second best. The grandson
of the Chief Justice of Bengal was going to an ordinary grammar school.
He always pretended in later life that he had had no proper education at all.
This was not true. Stirling was probably more academic than most rugger-
worshipping public schools. He would probably have got on better at a
public school just because he was better at playing games than Latin syntax.
Stirling was simply a continuation of the miserable book-slogging of the
Gatehouse school, without the after-hours freedom of boating on Calley
Lake. There was no flinging of lesson books to the four winds.


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  Another factor may have strengthened his feeling of inadequacy. He
  never learned to spell properly, which is surprising in someone who had an
unquestionable gift for languages and became almost pernickety about
grammatical correctness. Nowadays, he would almost certainly have been
classified as dyslexic. In those days, he was called stupid. It was probably a
constant hindrance to his progress at Stirling and a constant cause of
embarrassment and distress. It probably also gave him, later on, his special
interest in the mechanics of language - like the polio victim who trains
himself to become a tennis star.

  As he grew towards adolescence, his impishness developed into a more
  serious spirit of rebellion. Not that he was sullen or excessively
introspective. To most outward appearances he was cheerful, not to say
exuberant. But he became even wilder. And he quarrelled more with his
father (of course, most adolescent boys quarrel with their fathers). Quite
early on, he developed a reputation as a "ladies" man". He was beginning to
realise that he would always be small, which made him the keener to prove
that he was a man. He also, quite simply, liked girls; his sisters had always
adored him and he soon found that vivacity and charm more than made up
for his lack of height. His new boat on Calley Lake was named for one
girl-friend on one side and for another on the other side. It was probably
all innocent enough, but it caused his mother some worry. He showed no
signs of sharing her interest in piety and morality and he sometimes went
out of his way to shock her and his sisters.

  During one of the holidays from Stirling, an event occurred which stuck
  deep in his mind, and which he put in the novel Missianna which he was
working on when he died. He overheard a conversation between his father
and the Presbyterian "bishop" of Brechin, Dr. Coats, a very grand man
whom they sometimes visited. They started discussing him and Dr. Coats
said that he would either become "a very great and good, or a very bad,
man". It must have struck an echo in his own thoughts: he felt he had a
demon which he could not control but he was even more afraid of turning
out neither a saint nor a sinner but an ordinary person.

  Things got no better at Stirling as time went on and as soon as he
  reached the lowest possible leaving age, which was fifteen, he began an
almost continuous dialogue with his father, trying to persuade him to take
him away. The father quite reasonably pointed out that since they did not
have the money to start him off in business or the army, he would have to
take some exams. This went on for two more years, until an escape-route
suddenly showed itself. In October 1899, war broke out in South Africa.



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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  The government was bitterly attacked later for being so slow in calling
  for volunteers and Bobby Rattray was not responding to an urgent
summons when he decided immediately to sign himself up. It was simply
an escape to the kind of life which he felt was his. He did not exactly run
away, although it happened at the beginning of a new academic year. He
just told the headmaster that he was going and there was very little the
headmaster could do to stop him. "Papa Rat" was, of course, furious. They
were not taking recruits under nineteen and anyway it was no way to start
a career even if he did want to go into the army. Bobby's answer was that
if he was sent back to Stirling he would run away. His father had to give up
the struggle and Bobby went down to London and joined up with the
Imperial Yeomanry, giving his age as nineteen.


























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