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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  Drums, the Golden Stool, the Silver Stool, Gold-Weights and Neolithic
Implements. At the same time, there is a dominant theme, Religion, which
takes up the central mass of the book. When he came, six years later, to
write the introduction to Ashanti Law and Constitution, he explained that
he had originally intended to concentrate on the Law, which was the most
useful aspect of research for the Administration, but ‘I soon found myself,
in pursuance of my earlier intentions, constantly confronted with words in
the Ashanti language, which, although primarily associated with religion,
were nevertheless, continuously found in connection with Legal and
Constitutional procedure,’
107 and that is why he diverted his attention to
religion. But this is a rationalisation after the event. At the time, as we
have seen, he showed very few sings of having a coherent plan. It was
more like following his nose. At first his nose led him in many different
directions, but as he went on, it led him more insistently towards religion
and towards origins. It is true enough that traditional law and religion
were inseparable but he showed no signs of being especially interested in
the legal aspects of religion, and many signs of being interested in religion
and origins for their own sake.

  As I see it, this is no defect but a mark of his particular talent. If you are
  approaching a foreign culture, it is surely reasonable to pay most attention
to those aspects of it to which the members of the culture attach most
importance. Important enough as law is in Ashanti, religion is more
important. Rattray had some hard things to say about anthropologists who
have ‘something to prove’, and he kept himself free of that reproach by
using the Ashantis as his guide rather than using any theoretical system. It
means that his books accurately reflect his own process of discovery, and if
there is any distortion in them, it is the distortion of the Ashantis’ own
view of their society rather than his own view of it, even if this does make
his books a little hard to find one’s way around.

  In writing up his reports for publication, his main additions took the
  form of what might be called propaganda. it is necessary to remember that
there were plenty of Europeans in West Africa, and even more outside;
who still believed that the Africans were (in the words of the old slave
trader) ‘stupid and unenlightened hordes; immersed in the most gross and
impenetrable gloom of barbarism, dark in mind as in body, prodigiously
populous, impatient of all control, unteachably lazy, ferocious as their own
congenial tigers,
nor in any respect superior to these rapacious beasts in



  107Rattray (1929) p.v.

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  intellectual advancement but distinguished only by a rude and imperfect
organ of speech, which is abusively employed in the utterance of dissonant
and inarticulate jargon.’
108  N.B. Favell, one of Rattray’s contemporaries,
wrote after he retired: ‘In those days it was very noticeable that while the
“labour” type of man lived in England away from contact with natives he
was then, as now, full of humanitarian idealism for the poor ill-treated
natives; but directly he came out to one of the Colonies he became a strong
adherent of the “dammed nigger” school of thought.’ Favell once came
across Rattray in a remote village and wrote of the meeting: ‘I do not think
I hit it off very well with him as he has left the impression on my mind
that close contact with primitive Africans had caused a deterioration in his
character. I have also noticed this deterioration in missionaries of a certain
type.’
109  Men like Guggisberg and Fraser (headmaster of Achimota) were
full of missionary zeal to prove that the African was worthy to take his
place in the family of mankind (as they might have put it). There were also
a number of ordinary Government officers with the humility and
imagination to see that if Africans behaved differently it did not mean that
they were stupid. But the famous English tolerance is not so much a
question of understanding foreigners as keeping out of their way. Most
British on the Gold Coast managed to last out their time without even
trying to ‘understand the natives’, simply swearing at them cheerfully or
bitterly according to mood, and retiring to their rest-house or club-house
as soon as the day finished.
110

  Rattray was determined to prove to the world at large that the Ashanti
  were great people with a culture which was fully worthy of the name. It
was not a sudden conversion: as we have seen, there are signs of it in his
Ashanti Proverbs six years before. But whereas before it had been a
developing intellectual conviction, in 1921 it became a faith and mission.
The change had a lot to do with his personal circumstances and his personal
character. Accra had brought out the worst in him: his egotism, his



  108Anon.: Slavery No Oppression, 19C pamphlet cited in R. Coupland: Wilberforce
  (1923), p.115. It is still sometimes necessary to point out that there have never been any
tigers in Africa.

  109N.B. Favell: Reminiscences of Colonial Service in the Surve Departments of Ceylon
  and Gold Coast, Rhodes House MSS Brit. Emp

  110When asked about their relations with the British under the colonial regime,
  Ghanaians most often told me that they were not so much either friendly or unfriendly as
non-existent.

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  ambition, his insecurity and — most humiliating for him — his inability to
cope with the job. He had been given the chance to ‘show them what he
could do’, and had failed. Of course, he saw it as a betrayal. He knew he
was better than the boring pen-pushers at Government House. It is not too
far-fetched, I think, to say that the dismissal of the wife who had betrayed
him (as he saw it) was part of his dismissal of the official world which had
betrayed him: in any case, they happened at the same time and he diverted
his allegiance to Ashanti. Ashanti offered him an alternative world, a
colony which he could govern in his imagination like the ideal Indirect
Ruler, bringing out all that was best in it and mitigating all that was bad.
(Judgement is a faculty which is — or should be — shared by both
anthropologists and governors). And, of course, Ashanti really was a
power to set against the Government. By becoming a spokesman for them,
he could to some extent get his own back. It was an ideally ambiguous
position: Government representative (for many of the Africans he dealt
with he was the Government), but also champion of this great nation,
which had been defeated in war but whose spirit nonetheless was intact and
still uncontaminated by the comparatively squalid Europeanised world.
111

  Fortunately, it was a worthy mission. Instead of becoming an example of
  that typical Gold Coast character, the D.C. who, as promotion passes him
by, is increasingly sour about the country, the climate and the natives,
Rattray fulfilled himself in his job. The Ashanti brought out the best in
him,.

  The first part of his mission was to show that Ashanti religion was not
  just a matter of heathens bowing down to sticks and stones. From the
variety of rituals which he had observed, there had already emerged the
clear outline of a cosmology which it was not ridiculous to compare with
Christianity. At the highest point in it was a God — not just first among
equals, but a supreme deity like the God of the Jews  — a God who was
worthy of a capital letter when speaking of Him. This God, Nyame, who
‘dwells somewhat aloof in His firmament’, sends as his ambassadors, ‘His
vice-regents upon Earth’, the various abosom, or lesser gods such as Tano
and Bosumtwe, to possess their priests and to be consulted on matters of
importance by the people. The abosom are in their turn ‘graded in a
regular descending scale, until they reach, or at times almost merge into,
that class which the Ashanti themselves name suman, who are among the




  111Cf. also Introduction p.000 above.

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  lowest grades of superhuman powers.112 Suman is the word which best fits
the European ‘Fetish’ or ‘Juju’: objects, ranging from statues to bits of
clotted hair in a leather bag, which are held to have immediate magical
efficacy: the ‘sticks and stones’ to which the heathen do in reality
sometimes bow down. In Rattray’s view, the suman were hardly more than
an excrescence spoiling the face of the true Ashanti religion — ‘fetish spoil
the gods’, as the old priests kept on telling him. Finally, merging into this
hierarchy of greater and lesser gods and in harmony with it, was the
human pattern of life, social organisation, passage from birth to maturity
and death and reincarnation: and above all, the transition from human
status to the semi-divine or entirely divine status of an Ancestor.

  This was the beautiful pattern which had been obscured by the ignorance
  of European observers, and by the school-educated Africans who, ignorant
themselves, had tried to interpret it to the Europeans:


  ’The educated African has been cut off from, and is out of sympathy
  with, the life of his own people. He has learned, in nine cases out of ten,
if he has not actually been taught, to despise his own illiterate brethren
and the unlettered past of his race ....

  ‘If, as is probable, he has been educated in one of the mission schools,
  then his whole training, until quite recently, has been one in which it has
not appeared orthodox or even conceivable to his teachers that there
might be something in the African’s own culture and religious beliefs
worthy of retention side by side (for a time at least) with the greater,
because higher, ethical teachings of Christian theology.’
113


  The key to an understanding of the real nature of Ashanti religion lay in
  an uncompromising respect for the people who still retained it: ‘the old
expert, the custodian of the past lore of his race, whose head is full of
wisdom undreamed of in the seventh standard board-school philosophy of
the interpreter.’ There must be no spiritual slumming in the enquirer’s
approach to these people and no academic coldness:



  112R.S.s Rattray, Ashanti, 1923, pp. 141ff.

113Ibid., p. 87.

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  An Old Coaster Comes Home


  ’He must first gain their fullest confidence, and inspire their trust and
  affection. He must make them believe that this interest in them is not one
of idle curiosity or kindly superiority, nor yet again merely inspired by
love of knowledge. I approached these old people and this difficult
subject (their religious beliefs) in the spirit of one who came to them as a
seeker after truths, the key to which they alone possessed, which not all
the learning nor all the books of the white man could ever give me.

  ‘I made it clear to them that I asked access to their religious rites such
  as are here described for this reason. I attended these ceremonies with all
the reverence and respect I could accord to something which I felt to
have been already very old, before the religion of my country had yet
been born as a new thought; yet not so entirely new, but that even its
roots stretched back and were fed from that same stream which still
flows in Ashanti today.


  The steam crosses the path,

The path crosses the stream;

Which of them is the elder?

Did we not cut a path to go and meet this stream?

The stream had its origin long, long ago,

It had its origin in the Creator,

He created things,

Pure, pure Tano.’
114


  Rattray considered this passage important enough to repeat in his
  Preface when he had completed the book. It stands as a model of the way
cultures should meet.




  114Ibid., p. 89.

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  Another important part of this message was that the Ashanti should be
  educated into rather than out of their own culture. He was to become more
insistent about this as his work progressed, and Propaganda was the word
which he used himself for it. In the annual report for Ashanti which came
out at the end of 1921, he wrote: ‘No opportunity has been missed of
instituting a propaganda among these people .... They have been told that
their ideal should be, not to become pseudo-Europeans, but to aim at
progress for their race which is based on their own institutions, religion,
manners and customs; that they will become better and finer men by
remaining true Ashantis and retaining a pride in their past, and that a
greater hope lies in their future if they will follow and build upon lines
with which the national sunsum or soul have been familiar since first they
were a people.’
115 He repeated these words in the Preface to Ashanti. In the
Report, he followed them with a plea to the Europeans:


  ‘It cannot be said it has been fashionable for us in the past to take an
  interest in Ashanti national beliefs and customs. It is difficult to take an
interest in that which we do not clearly understand.

  ‘Many a European Officer has in an official capacity listened to a
  native band, sweatingly blowing out Rule Britannia upon instruments
with which he is familiar, and has congratulated the bandmaster and the
Chief upon his new acquisition, and enterprise. The same Officer has
possibly more than once sent his orderly to “stop that drumming” the
sound of which seems to him possibly even worse than the martial
strains to which he has just been compelled to listen.

  ‘The old drummer is, in any case, little likely to be called up before
  His Majesty’s representative and congratulated. Yet the best of his drums
is talking to the old men and women who sit and listen to its recital, in
their own tongue, of the names and deeds of dead kings and the history
of their ancestors.’
116







115Annual Colonial Report. Ashanti. 1921  nn 17.1

116Ibid. p.19.

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  The same report contained statistics on the enormous increase in the
  number of converts to Christianity in Ashanti — nearly fifteen thousand in
a year. The Times quoted extracts from this part of the report together
with some of Rattray’s under the heading ‘Old and New in Ashanti: Mass
Movement to Christianity.’
117

  His leave was not entirely taken up with illness and writing. In October,
  he was invited to accompany Lady Guggisberg in presenting the Silver
Stool to Princess Mary at Chesterfield House (Guggisberg was still in
Accra). After Christmas, he flew on the new Handley Page service to
Paris, and it is probably on this winter holiday that he met the French girl
who was to be the mother of his only child. He regarded his marriage to
Connie as finished, and the long struggle began to try and get a divorce
from her. It is impossible at this distance to apportion blame: he felt she
was holding on out of spite, but it could well be that she hoped they might
come together again.

  In March he was back again in Oxford, finishing off the manuscript for
  Ashanti and discussing it with Marett and the Seligmans. He wholeheartedly
acknowledged their help but he gave pride of place to his African friends
— ‘chiefs and hunters, priests and priestesses, medicine men and witch
doctors’. There was an elegiac note too, in memory of the two who had
already died; Kakari, the ‘old Ashanti aristocrat, who left his village to
follow me, contributing each day from his treasures of African lore’, and
Sewa Akoto, ‘a fitting representative of a class for whom I cannot speak
without unbounded enthusiasm, the Queen Mothers and old women of
Ashanti.’
118

  Rattray belonged to the pre-Malinowski school of anthropology, which
  usually assumed that the most interesting aspects of a ‘primitive’ culture
were the ‘mysteries’: religion, totem, taboo, witchcraft and rites of
passage. More recently, family relationship and political organisation had
been given more attention. But technology and arts and crafts were
considered separate branches of anthropology, until Malinowski showed
how closely the spiritual and physical sides of life were related. Rattray
might not have bothered about technology if history had not intervened
again, this time with the great Empire Exhibition at Wembley which was




  117The Times, Jan.2, 1923.

118Rattray (1923) p.13.

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  already being planned for 1924. Sir Francis Fuller was on the committee,
and Lady Guggisberg took an active part.

  Maxwell asked him to take charge of the Gold Coast contribution to four
  parts of the exhibition, which were to be called: (a) Manufactures of the
Empire, (b) Machinery and Implements of the Empire, (c) Fine and
Industrial Arts (d) Electrical and Mechanical Appliances. His first reaction
was disappointment in having the line of his research broken, and a certain
amount of scepticism as to whether there could be any Gold Coast
contribution to those sections — ‘I am inclined to think that some one who
really feared that none of these existed among the indigenous population of
our Colony, had suggested that these sections be turned over to me, as
being credited with a facile pen.’
119

  No doubt he expressed this opinion to Maxwell, but Maxwell was good
  at dealing with him. His character was almost the exact converse of
Rattray’s: conventional, conciliatory and without a trace of jealousy. He
was able to offer Rattray quote sincere flattery. (Rattray on his side
despised Maxwell, but it was impossible to dislike him). Maxwell also told
him that there would be a certain amount of money available to help in
collecting exhibits.

  On the 21st, he read a paper to the African Society in London on the
  Drum Language of West Africa, illustrated with his recordings.120 It
caused something of a sensation and was widely reported. The talking
drums were a familiar part of the mythology of Africa, and here was an
expert not debunking them, as experts were expected to do, but
demonstrating that they were exactly what popular mythology had made
them out to be. Sir Robert Baden-Powell was one of those who were
deeply stirred by it. He had been in charge of the 1895 march on Kumasi
and talking drums were very much in his line. He was inspired to try and
adapt the principle for his Boy Scouts, and Rattray later came up with the
idea of using the ‘male’ and ‘female’ drums for the dash and dot of the
morse code — which rather went against the point of the talking drums,
but worked quote well when he and the Scoutmaster tried it out in
Mampong. Baden-Powell grilled Rattray about his other researches and



  119R.S. Rattray: 'The Arts and Crafts of the Gold Coast and Ashanti' in West Africa,
  British Empire Exhibition Supplement. May 24.

  120It was 'written up' for the Journal of the African Society, April/May 1923, and
  Chapter XXII of Ashanti.

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  gave him a copy of his book The Downfall of Prempeh. In the inscription
with almost touching immodesty and inaccuracy he called himself
‘Kantankye’ which is nearly the Twi for ‘hero’.
121

  A week later, he sailed for the Gold Coast. he set up his headquarters
  again in Mampong, and this time there were fewer excursions into the bush
and frantic hopping from rest-house to rest-house. He soon found that his
fears about the interruption of his research were only partly true. As soon
as he arrived in Mampong, for instance, he started investigating the
techniques and varieties of weaving, as part of his preparation for the
exhibition; but he was able at almost exactly the same time to record the
‘outdooring’ of a child. The main gaps left to be filled in his account of
Ashanti religion were the rites de passage, the ceremonies attending the
transition-points in human life from birth to death. There was no need to
travel to the distant bush to find these. In Mampong, they happened at
regular intervals around him. And in any case, he had already recorded
many of the ceremonies and his research increasingly took the form of
sitting in the evenings with a known and trusted informant.

  There was one other line of research which he was eager to follow. His
  previous tour had taken him to distant parts in his search for origins; now
he wanted to get to the centre, to the heart of the Ashanti kingdom in
Kumasi. The Golden Stool affair had made the Ashanti a little less cautious
about revealing their political secrets. Guggisberg was making moves (in
response to strong pressure from all quarters in and outside Ashanti) to
return the exiled Asantehene Prempeh from the Seychelles. In May,
Rattray stayed in Kumasi seeking out members of the Ashanti court who
had not been exiled or had returned. Among them were Kojo Pira, the
dwarf court jester who had been present at the surrender of Prempeh in
1896 and the Chief Executioner, Nana Totoe. With these he visited the
Akyeremade mausoleum, where those members of the royal Oyoko clan
were buried who were not enstooled as Asantehene, or who had been
destooled. Then, a week later, on Thursday, 10th May, came what he called
at the time ‘the proudest day of my life’, when he was taken to see the
Golden Stool. He was told to bring two sheep for sacrifice which he duly
did. He was in all probability the first European to see it, certainly in






  121It should be Okatakye.

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  recent times, and for ten years he did not divulge his secret.122 Here is his
account:


  ‘We were in a room, lighted only through the open doorway, which
  contained as its almost sole article of furniture, a round table, about
three feet in diameter, standing on four bent legs and covered with a
piece of red carpet, with some faded design upon it. On top of this table
were arranged three bells, all different sizes, the largest about 8 in. high,
another about 5 in. high, and the third much smaller; these bells were
bee-hive shaped, with a small circular knob on top, with a hole.

  ‘I was later informed that two of these bells were brass, and the third
  gold. All were so thickly covered with congealed blood that it was quite
impossible to see of what metal they were made. These bells were partly
resting on what resembled an old piece of hoop-iron which, I was told,
had once held the central piece of the old wooden stool together. Against
the smallest of the three bells leaned a gold mask of Edinkira, the famous
King of Gyaman, whom the Ashanti had once defeated. I did not see the
death mask of Sir Charles McCarthy, possibly because my friends did
not wish to hurt my feelings, but I was informed it still existed. In
addition to these mask, bells and iron, there were a pair of gold fetters
....

  ‘Behind the regalia now described lay a small bundle tied up in cloth,
  or large handkerchief. This had, I think, once been white. On the fabric
was a design of dark-coloured butterflies. The cloth was stained with
blood. This little bundle — for all the world like some navvy’s dinner
tied up in a kerchief — contained the Golden Stool. Later it was
reverently opened, and the contents were seen to consist of a piece of
wood, about 3 in. by 5 in., stained quite black with blood. This, I was
told, was a corner of the base of the Stool. Besides this, the largest piece,
were several smaller fragments and a few handfuls of what was almost



  122He told it in an article for the Illustrated London News, 2 March 1935, marking the
  enstoolment of Prempeh II as Asantehene. ‘I do not think I am betraying a secret I have
thought fit to keep for ten years,’ he wrote, ‘the old greybeard is now dead who, because
he believed I had the Ashanti cause at heart, revealed to me, a solitary individual, what
armies had tried in vain to discover. His action in taking the tremendous responsibility he
did take in showing me the Stool contributed, I hope, towards the happy ending we now
all acclaim. That, I consider, is a complete justification so far as my dear old friend’s action
is concerned.’ (The ‘dear old friend’ was Chief Totoe.)

  109



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