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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  or believers. Rattray was not really an intellectual himself and his beliefs,
as we can see from the letter, were quite simple. This prevented him from
making Ashanti thought seem much more coherent than it actually was. (It
could well be argued that even so he made it seem more coherent than it
was.) Cultures are, of course, always complex and often surprisingly
coherent, but in such a way as is usually visible only to an anthropologist
and only rarely to even the smallest group of intellectuals within the
society itself. Like the above average members of the societies he studied,
Rattray constructed a rather simplest rule-of-thumb pattern of ideas against
which their life could be understood. Especially when compared with the
great generalising anthropologists of earlier and later generations (J.G.
Frazer, Claude Lévi-Strauss), he did not let the wood hide the trees.

  Even in the far north, away from any obvious reminders of Ashantiland,
  he saw his work in relation to the Ashanti — as is shown by the title which
he chose for his next book: The Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland. He was
still in search of origins. When he first arrived in the North, the sight of
the near-naked inhabitants assured him that he was going back from the
‘barbarous’ state of the Ashanti to the truly ‘primitive’ and in the Nankanse
and Isala he saw, in their pristine state, institutions which the Ashanti had
refined so as to become more mysterious. The matrilineal system of the
Ashanti was one of the more obvious survivals (be believed) of the earlier
state. But even in the North the primeval society had been to some extent
overlaid by invaders from the Moslem empires further to the north,
though they had had very little influence except at the political centre —
i.e. the chieftaincy. This is how things used to be:


  ‘Wealth in our modern sense was unknown; the people went about
  naked; their property consisted only in bows and arrows, pots,
calabashes, and live stock. Disputes were settled by the Elders of each
family group. The priestly ruler was appealed to only in cases affecting
a breach of the tribal taboos, or in matters of wider than family import.
Fear of the anger of ancestral or other spirits moulded every action to a
degree far surpassing anything found even among the ancestor-
worshipping Ashanti — ancestral spirits moved between God and man
and man and God — a link which is missing or less obvious in the South;
men and women spent a considerable part of their lives at the
soothsayers’ shrines....’
191




191
R.S. Rattray, Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland, 1932, Vol 1, p. xiv.

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  But the longer he stayed in the North the less he saw the pattern of life,
  either in the North or the South, as a static, almost eternal state
occasionally disrupted by the incursions of invaders, and the more as
constantly dissolving and reforming and, in the case of the Ashanti,
developing more sophisticated political forms in the process: ‘The
reshuffling of tribal units and the formation of territorial groupings, these
are the origins we have to trace. We have been confusing, I believe, the
migration of a few families of a higher and more civilised type, who
produced these changes, with the migration of a people.’
192

  It was the nearest he came to answering the problem which has
  continued to befog not only anthropology but, even more, African politics:
when you talk about the Ashanti, the Yoruba or the Ibo, to whom are you
actually referring? The people living in a certain geographical area? Those
who call themselves Ashanti, Yoruba, etc.? Those who speak a certain
language? Those who share a common history or a common origin? In the
North he saw how different the answers to each of these questions are,
without the existence of a quasi-nation-state such as existed in Ashanti.
Where, instead of the elaborate court of the Ashanti chief standing at the
centre of a cluster of family houses, you had a countryside scattered with
little fortress-like compounds, each apparently turning its back on its
nearest neighbour which may be half a mile away, the family immediately
seemed to take on more importance than the tribe. And where Isala has
freely intermarried with Tampolense, Namnam with Kusase, the tribe itself
seems to dissolve as a concept. It was left to Rattray’s successor in the
North, Meyer Fortes, to show the full complexity of family relations in a
typical area of the North, but Rattray had already (despite the title of his
book) shown how the Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland were more
homogeneous, and also more fragmented, than the name ‘tribe’ suggests.

  However, this did not stop him looking for origins, especially when
  towards the end of the year, when the retreat rains made westward travel
impossible, he visited the Lobi country near the French border. The Lobi
had the reputation of being the most primitive of the Gold Coast tribes.
When Rattray visited them, the French were conducting a campaign against
them across the border, and those in British territory were understandably
wary. But Rattray discovered that he could communicate with them in
Mole, and soon found them approachable. He said they were ‘absolutely



  192Rattray (1932) Vol.I p.xx.

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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  delightful to work among, and I have carried away very pleasant
remembrances of my stay among them.’
193 He thought that he had found
among the Lobi the evidence he was after, of a double system of
matrilineal and patrilineal clans which he felt must have preceded the more
one-sided system in Ashanti, though his successors established that there
was no evolutionary process at work, but that (to quote Fortes) ‘in every
primitive society both sides of the family always count’, in his review of
Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland.
194He was given evidence, too, of how the
coming of the Europeans had upset the traditional order. In the old days
they had had no other chief than the Tengsob, the head of the clan who was
also trustee for clan land and head-priest:


  ‘Formerly we did not know anything about Chiefs. In olden times any
  man who had many sons commanded respect, he was Libiesob (the rich
man). When the Europeans came, these were the men who came forward
to meet them with a white fowl, while the Tengsob ran away. They (i.e.
the former) became the white man’s Chiefs.’
195


  As we have seen in most cases the puppet chief was (according to
  Rattray) a Moslem heir to invaders. This example showed that there did
not have to be a chief already in situ for the British to recognise one. It
confirmed Rattray in his conviction that under the colonial regime the
Tendanas, or Tengsobs, were the neglected sheet-anchors of traditional
society in the Northern tribes, as the queen mothers had been in Ashanti,
and it was his mission to attract recognition for them. And as with the
queen mothers in Ashanti, he was not thanked by the D.C.’s. ‘If Rattray
suggests that Tingdamas in Dagomba should be chiefs’, the local D.C.
wrote to Duncan-Johnston when Rattray’s report reached him, ‘I must with
all due deference disagree with him. It has repeatedly proved a failure here




  193Ibid. Vol II p.425.

194M. Fortes: Review of 'Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland' in

The Journal of the African Society Jan. 1933, p.93

195Rattray (1932) Vol II p.429.

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  even when they have been made into small headmen.’196 And again, they
had a point. As the behaviour of the Lobi Tengsobs showed when the
British arrived, a traditional priest of the land will not necessarily be able
to cope with the new situation.

  While he was visiting the Lobi, the Colonial Office was debating with
  Accra about his future. He had written to Ellis asking again what chances
there were of staying on as Deputy Chief Commissioner or Secretary of
Native Affairs. J.E.W. Flood wrote back to Slater: ‘Rattray (on whom be
peace, though I doubt whether he really deserves it!) has asked Ellis who is
the only man whom he really knows in the Office, what are the chances of
his further promotion in the Gold Coast .... I am sure that he would make a
mess of being Chief Commissioner, even in the Northern Territories.’
197
Slater’s answer has not survived, but he certainly agreed that it was time
for this gaudy ornament of the Gold Coast to be put on the shelf.

  He spent Christmas 1929 at Navrongo, and by way of a Christmas
  present heard that he had been awarded a Doctorate (D.Sc.) by Oxford. He
immediately wrote to tell the Colonial Office, and added ‘I would also beg
to request that you will be so kind as to notify His Excellency, the
Governor of the Gold Coast, whose unfailing kindness to me, and interest,
assistance, and encouragement in all my work, has so largely contributed to
the generous recognition which my anthropological work in the Gold Coast
has been accorded by yourself and others.’
198 It is not recorded whether
Flood was mollified by this, or if it increased his irritation.

  By Christmas, he had gathered notes on the Nankanse, Talense,
  Namnam, Builsa, Dagaba, Lobi, Wala, Isala, Awuna and Kasena. In
January, he moved to the Eastern corner of the country to add the Kusasi
and Mamprusi — and taking in some hunting with Simpson. Then back via
Tumu and south into the broad thinly populated belt of Gonja country. He
had heard by now that his time was quite definitely up (‘he has had a long
innings’ — Flood), so at the beginning of March he packed up his
belongings, said farewell to Kanton, the Tumu Chief, to John Kinjanga and
the rest, and set off for Tamale, calling in at Zuarungu to say good-bye to
Simpson and the other British officers. He dropped Aboya and his wife at



  196A Duncan-Johnstone: Papers, Rhodes House MSS Afr.

197Foreign Office file.

198Ibid.

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  Winkongo, so by the time he reached Tamale he had only the faithful
Amadu with him.

  It was not quite the end of his field-work. From Tamale he went off to
  Yendi for a few days to interview the Dagomba chief (the Ya Na) and
members of his court. He realised by now that he would not be able to do
justice to the empires, rather than chieftaincies, of Gonja and Dagomba
lying geographically and culturally, between the ‘true’ North and
Ashantiland, which were to have taken up the third volume of his book.
There was not time, and, besides, Cardinall, Armstrong and others had
already been working on them for a constitutional conference at Yendi at
the end of the year. And, for once, he was entirely dependent on an
interpreter, a Mr. Tamakloe who, if his name is anything to go by, was not
a Dagomba but an Ewe. The 15th of March was his last day at Yendi,
recording from the Mba Dogo, the chief’s cook (and a rather more
important official than that might suggest), the ceremony of a Na’s
enstoolment. The last words he noted down were the new chief’s farewell
to the sub-chiefs who had helped in the ceremony: ‘My uncles, you have
spent some time in Yendi; God has given you lucky heads; return to your
lands and assist me in making the earth good.’
199 It must have seemed like
his own valediction.

  He called in at Achimota to say his good-byes there, expressing to
  Williams his frustration at having to leave before he had done more than
take a glimpse at the North, and at the Castle to see Slater. It must have
been an agreeable interview — nothing was easier for Slater than saying
good-bye to him. And on the 15th, he sailed on the Aba home for his last
leave.

  ‘As I write these last lines’, he said in his Blackwood’s article “My Last
  Tour” describing his last hunting exploits, written in Hastings just after he
returned,


  ‘I can turn my head and see two yellow tusks leaning against a trim
  glass-fronted cabinet. Outside the window, the sunlight dances on the
English Channel; an aeroplane has just droned overhead; below lies the
‘Old Town’, with its red roofs and grey house-tops. Beachy Head stands
out clearly, seemingly just beyond a green strip whereon old Hastings



  199Rattray MS Diary.

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  Castle appears to cling lest it topple over into the sea. It is a perfect day
in early summer in as perfect a spot as England can offer to the returned
wanderer.

  ‘Why is it, then, that the home-comer is not content? In the answer to
  this question lies the secret of Africa’s hold upon all who have really
come to grips with her, who have ever come under her spell, who have
ever duped themselves into imagining that they have eluded her. In the
moment of self-congratulation at this escape, which is epitomised in the
word ‘retirement’, one suddenly comes to realise that Africa was, after
all, the victor. She will always hold you with memories or with quiet
confidences which, like those of a bride, only she and you can ever share
in common.
200


  A little trite perhaps, but no doubt it accurately expressed what he felt
  on being stranded on a quiet English coast after thirty years in the deep.





























  200“My Last Tour”, p.432.

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  An Old Coaster Comes Home








  Chapter 11. An Old Coaster Comes Home







  In retrospect there is an elegiac quality in Rattray’s years of retirement,
  though at the time most people who met him were struck by his
youthfulness. He was still hoping to marry the French mother of his child
(now being looked after by his sister ‘Boo’), and went to stay with her in
the Pyrenees for his first Christmas, putting together the book on the
Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland, which he combined with skiing —
something he had always hoped to do, but had never had the chance. Then
he went on to Berlin to take a short course on German, so as to give him
another European language as a qualification for an academic post. Back in
England, he stayed at first in Hastings near his mother and sister. He
applied for various professorships and fellowships, including the Chair of
Anthropology at Sydney, and a Leverhulme Research Fellowship ‘to study
psychology with a view to its application to my anthropological data
collected during the past twenty years on the Gold Coast.’201 Neither was
successful: he was too narrowly specialist for the first and too ‘mature’ for
the second. Marett did his best to persuade the Colonial Office to find a use
for him, but the economic situation was making things tight and in any case
many of the Colonial Office people felt that they knew him too well. The
university academics expected him to follow up his ethnographic work
with something more theoretical, but he disappointed them.




  201Foreign Office file.

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  An Old Coaster Comes Home

  He described his state of mind during these first years in a pot-boiling
  article called ‘An Old Coaster Comes Home’.202 ‘A certain restlessness’, he
said, ‘coupled with vain heart-longings for Africa and the old scenes,
which seems at times to assail the sojourner who returns to settle down at
last in “the old country” may become almost a menace to that happiness
usually associated with quiet retirement. He wanders from house to house,
from home to home, more than half-fearful to commit himself to any
particular spot or habitation. Moreover, he thanks his lucky stars for his
timidity as he flees, after a brief trial, from garden city or suburban
“villa", and again sallies forth in quest of the perfect home’. It took him
nearly three years to find a point of rest, in a picturesque cottage in the
Buckinghamshire village of Winslow. He ‘did it up’ called it, with some
self-parody, ‘The Old Homestead’, and settled down in it for the rest of
life. People always referred to him as ‘Captain Rattray’, which he did
nothing to discourage. He bred dachshunds: do doubt there was some
narcissism in his attraction towards the plucky little red-haired animals.
Opposite ‘The Old Homestead’ was a church whose chime on the hour
Rattray translated as ‘This great big flea is biting me I feel it on my bum’.

  Winslow was almost exactly half-way between Oxford and Cambridge,
  which was convenient because by now he was teaching trainee colonial
officers taking the anthropology course at both universities, in Twi and
Hausa. But it was much nearer to Dunstable, the headquarters of the new
sport of gliding. The distance reflected quite accurately the relative
importance of these places in his life.

  At the same time, he did not leave Africa behind him completely. His
  Tribes of the Ashanti Hinterland came out in 1932. He knew that it would
not have the same authority as his Ashanti books, that it would be not much
more than an introductory survey; though in his usual way he made a
political point in his preface, this time that administrators should pay more
attention to the Tendanas (the traditional priestly ‘lords of the earth’),
rather than ignoring them in favour of the secular chiefs, who Rattray
claimed were often foreign newcomers. Fortes, who was to make the
classic study of a Northern people, the Tallensi, in the late ‘thirties (largely
through Rattray’s encouragement), welcomed Rattray’s book
enthusiastically; but some of Rattray’s old colleagues took the opportunity
to get some of their resentment off their chests. C. Vivian wrote a long
article, rather than a review, in the West African Review, under the title of





  202In 1934 Christmas Souvenir of Nigerian Affairs, pp. 104-8.

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  ‘Anthropology in the Gold Coast: Discoveries of Known Facts.’203 It
started with a bitter attack, not just on Rattray’s book but on the institution
of Government Anthropologist itself, and particularly for keeping on
Rattray at the rank of Provincial Commissioner for so long, doing what
most officers did anyway in the evenings as a hobby. ‘Captain Rattray ....
chose to work by himself rather than to correlate, verify and edit the
accumulated knowledge of previous writers, and the records of present-day
observers in the field’. He also accused Rattray of taking all the credit for
the Golden Stool settlement. Another, milder, review in The Geographical
Journal by A.W. Cardinall again accused him of ignoring earlier sources,
possibly influenced by the fact that Rattray had only referred twice,
dismissively, to his own Natives of the Northern Territories of the Gold
Coast.204

  Rattray did not bother to answer, but J.B. Danquah, Ofori Atta’s
  nephew, who had once planned to make a study similar to Rattray’s of the
Akan people and had gracefully stepped aside when he saw how well
Rattray was doing, took up the argument for Rattray. Under the title of ‘A
Defence of Captain Rattray’s Work’, he answered Vivian’s criticism by
saying that the value of Rattray’s work lay in its independence of secondary
sources: ‘As a Twiman with both Akim and Ashanti ancestry .... I may be
privileged to say that no truer and more intimate or better-informed
record of the customs and institutions of the Akan-Ashanti peoples of the
Gold Coast is extant in the English language ... it seems to me certain that
school, college and university books .... will, in future, draw largely upon
the inexhaustible mine in Rattray.’
205

  Ignoring these snipping attacks, Rattray was opening a campaign of his
  own against the institution of Indirect Rule itself, from the security and
freedom of his retirement. It began quietly in a review of Stephen Gwynn’s
Life of Mary Kingsley in 1932. If it is possible to be in love with a dead
person you have never met, then Rattray was in love with Mary Kingsley.
In fact, it is hard to believe that he had not met her, when he talks of ‘the
beautiful, elusive, almost whimsical expression of her face’ and ‘the






  203The West African Review, Feb. 1933, p.29.

204The Geographical Journal, Feb. 1933, p.175.

205The West African Review, Feb.1933, p.29.

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  haunting charm of her utterly fearless nature’.206 Most of the review is
hagiography. Like other people in love, he ascribed his own values to her:
her belief in traditional African culture, her ambivalence towards the
colonial establishment, her feeling that African religion was like her own,
and above all her courage (‘that “lovely virtue” ... which Barrie so rightly
extols"). He said that his own books owed ‘everything of value which they
contain to her example and inspiration.’

  At the end of the review he quoted Mary Kingsley’s words on Indirect
  Rule:


  ‘Ruling on European lines through natives is not the same thing as
  ruling on African principles through native rulers .... The English
tradition is to maintain the native law when that law is not too
bloodstained to be handled by a Christian gentleman. This tradition is a
fine one, but it causes dangerous friction that alienates the affection and
confidence of our dark fellow-subjects if that native law form is said by
England to be administered and is not administered, but in its place a
mongrel uncertain thing, a thing which we necessarily get when we
administer a law we do not take the trouble to understand, as is the case
of African law.’207


  Rattray said that this was as true in 1932 as when Mary Kingsley wrote
  it. Colonial governments had been too much encouraged by the success of
Indirect Rule in Northern Nigeria, where it meant little more than
allowing the centralised Fulani and Hausa Emirates to carry on as they had
before British rule. It was very different in the decentralised societies of
Ashanti and the Northern Territories of the Gold Coast, One necessity was
for the governments to make sure that they really did understand the
traditional political structures, through studies such as his own. But much
more important was the need for the ‘detribalised’ educated Africans to be
involved in the evolution of forms of government which combined the best
of traditional and Western forms. Governments should be educating the



  206In theory, it is not impossible that they had met, when March Kingsley went to
  South Africa at the beginning of the Boer War — where she died of typhoid caught while
nursing Boer soldiers. But it is fairly clear from Rattray's review that they had not.

  207The Journal of the African Society. Oct. 1932. 354-365.

  189



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